So people eat dinner here late. Like really late. A typical night here starts at 10, when, after settling in after work, you make dinner. Weekend nights start even later, with dinner starting at 11, at the earliest. On every night in the week, restaurants are deserted until at least 9, with the exception of tourists, who can easily be identified in those hours as the ones walking around the city, peering in the empty eateries, and loudly wondering/complaining as to why no one is out.

My apartmentmates follow a similar schedule- home around 8, in the kitchen around 10, eating at 10:30 and then off to their rooms to work or sleep. I'm trying to blend in and get the hang of their nightly routine, but it seems that I'm not quite understanding it yet, especially with the time window for dinner. Today's discovery: that apparently 11 is post-dinner time. I say this beacuse here I am in the kitchen at 11:30, eating my pasta with capers, olives, and ham in olive oil (a little too heavy on the olive oil, not enough pasta, but delicious capers), and I'm all by myself in the only lit room in the apartment, alone, as everyone else sleeps.

I'll get the hang of this one day.